Whether Kai Loebach is feeding a mob of art patrons or a group of a dozen friends the results are exceptional. The service is impeccably carried out by attractive and amiable help, the presentation is invariably elegant, and the food is simply wonderful. Clearly there is painstaking attention to every aspect of the meal but the effect is not of intimidating formality, but of congenial sociability.\r
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Inside any menu he devises there are a pleasing variety of kinds of tastes and his ability to combine ingredients in a given dish amounts to genius. For example, to garnish a perfectly seared scallop with foie gras and a dollop of blueberry compote may seem willful, but only until the delicious result is tasted. His take on shepherd?s pie involves mushrooms, sweet potatoes, and ground chicken and is the apotheosis of comfort food. (A child who was served food like this would never leave home.) His desserts, which are often composed of contrasting textures like the smooth and the crunchy, are luscious. Charmingly, he gives each departing guest a single neatly wrapped cookie as souvenir of what has gone before. \r
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