2009 Fall Dining Guide By Tom Sietsema Washington Post Staff Writer Sunday, Oct. 18, 2009 The guy in the suit at the door, Youssef Eagle Essakl, turns out to be pretty handy with power tools: As the owner of this French gem in Prince William County is apt to tell you himself, he not only cut and stained the mahogany tables in the dining room, he sewed the curtains for his windows and arranged the Virginia cobblestones for his walls. Essakl spent 25 years working in other people's restaurants before striking out on his own a couple of years ago, and the experience shows in this personal statement. Bistro L'Hermitage delivers a mostly polished performance, coaxed from soft jazz, flickering table lamps, attentive servers and a kitchen that sends out quiet pleasures. Nothing is terribly complicated; much is rewarding. There are fresh french fries with the homey roast chicken, and creamy risotto beneath a fine, skin-on trout. If the steak is bland, the entree's perfectly seasoned spinach and divine whipped potatoes help make up for the disappointment (which extends these days to unmemorable desserts). Look for French classics among the specials -- sweetbread roulade, if you're lucky -- and check out the restrooms before you depart. The doors are padded in red leather, and the walls are papered with leftovers from a Ritz-Carlton supplier. Oh la la!
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