Having grown up in the North End, I am somewhat of an expert on what constitutes ""like Mama used to make."" But curiosity compelled me to check out Polcari's in Saugus. The theme-park-like atmosphere was the first indication that the cuisine was not their first priority. Don't get me wrong...I like being entertained as much as the next person. But when I'm in the mood for a great culinary experience, I want less flash and more substance. So I ignored the wait staff dressed like stereotypical gangsters, and the statue of St. Anthony very much displayed like Mickey at Disney World. With restrained skepticism, I ordered the Veal Parm. What greeted me was a veal cutlet atop a bed of linguine smothered in a sauce of chunky tomatoes. I took my first bite, and instead of tasting gravy infused with garlic and basil, I tasted...nothing. Nada. Zip. If you find Ragu and Chef Boyardee palatable, this is the place to go. If you're looking for a fun evening out, and don't mind mediocre Italian food, knock your lights out. I, for one, will continue to make my own gravy on Sundays, and stick to the little Italian joints that have stuck true to their roots.
Pros: Nice atmosphere
Cons: So-so service, the food
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