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Doug Shook kicks Louie's into high gear. - Review by citysearch c | Louie's Backyard

Louie's Backyard

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Doug Shook kicks Louie's into high gear. 10/23/2007

Having recently returned from Key West October 18, 2007, I can say with gratitude that Louie's Backyard has defied time and is as great as ever. The last time I dined at Louie's was 20 years ago, shortly after Doug Shook took over as Executive Chef. Being in the restaurant business, Louie's those many years back, seemed like a jewel from the ocean, an oasis from the tourist environment of Duval Street. During this last visit I must have had 5 dinners and 2 lunches simply because no other on the island could deliver such consistently delicious food and gracious service. Each day Chef Shook fillets the freshest fish possible, caught and delivered by his fisherman. There may be fresh grouper served over braised red chard and brought together by a multi-layered vegetable demi-glace, or hog fish served over white chantrelle mushrooms, the lunch and evening ""specials"" are just that, very special. You must try their Bahamian Conch Chowder with Bird Pepper Hot Sauce. I have had other chowders that are OK, but come up short of the complete flavors of Louie's take on this dish. Other dinner entrees that have all been exemplary included Sauteed Veal Sweetbreads as tender as anyone could want; Pan Roasted Young Chicken that was as perfectly cooked as any chicken I have had and served with a melange of Artichokes, Eggpplant, and crist Roasted Fingerling Potatoes. A very special salad, not available outside of tomato season, brings together diced watermelon, heirloom tomatoes, and goat cheese. But it was layered in a circular ring with the goat cheese on the botton, the tomatoes and watermelon on top, placed on a bed of arugula and ""sprikled"" with balsamic jelly, not just the usual balsamic vinaigrette. It was truely inspired. Sevice was exemplary. I was made to feel as though I had walked into my own home. Wait staff were friednly, excited about the food served, and helpfull in every way that I could expect. Coupled with the ocean view, Louie's remains very special indeed. Pros: Very special food, service, wine list, and ambiance by the ocean. Well worth the price. more
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