The legendary Trader Vic's has opened where brilliant Stars used to be. But over-the-top Polynesian decor doesn't work as well in the brightly lit room as it did in dingy Cosmo Place. I grew up in the old Trader Vic's and was hoping to find the excellent service and uncompromised quality that so many San Franciscans had grown to rely on. No and no. The hostess was cheerful and cordial and seated our party of 4 promptly in the empty dining room of clubby red leather chairs. But our waitress was surly throughout and seemed anxious to get rid of us despite there being, alas, only 3 occupied tables in the big room. I consoled myself by perusing the menu. It was lunch time, but sandwiches at Trader Vic's? And such an abbreviated menu to boot. Fortunately, Bongo Bongo soup was still available and it was the soup I used to order without fail. But not finding other old faves I had to settle for Curry Crab Salad--remembering the fresh crab I used to enjoy on crisp endives with a soy sauce based vinaigrette. When it came the soup was green and served in an oyster shell as in the old days but the flavor was more Bongone than Bongo. Didn't taste like fresh oyster puree. And the salad did not resemble its name. The ice cream scoop of fishy stuff was mostly cut up prawns. Where was the crab? In the old Trader Vic's a crab salad would have featured shelled whole crab leg parts--and only the biggest pieces. The price should have tipped me off--$17 doesn't buy much crab these days. But to call it Curry Crab Salad and fill it with shrimp seems dishonest. It's just not the way Vic Bergeron would have done it and it would have embarrassed the loyal, long-serving, professional staff on Cosmo Place. I wish Trader Vic's had not reopened to tarnish the reputation of its eponymous founder and predecessor restaurant.
Pros: Flower display
Cons: Service, Food
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