Trader Vic's is the top-of-line when it comes to ""Tiki"" (Eurasian fusion, with casual tropical island atmosphere) dining, and this is the flagship restaurant in the chain.
Yet that atmosphere is surprisingly cursory, the decor staid, and the management lent a chilly air rather than island hospitality.
Though there were few customers upon arriving, we weren't seated by a window, despite charming views of the Emeryville Marina. We immediately requested one, and after nervous hesitation were granted it. (Later, the manager appeared to speak angrily with the hostess while both glanced at us uneasily.)
The ""captain"" (yes, that's what she was called on the bill, distinguishing her gratuity from that of the jolly ""waiters"") took our order. The food quality varied, from exquisite medallions of veal and desserts to mediocre lobster and Boston clam chowder. The chicken chow mein, at thrice the standard price, elevated this mundanity to the sublime.
Pros: Views of marina, Mostly superb food, Fun drinks
Cons: Ultra-expensive, Snooty about seating, Oddly buttoned-down
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