Union Restaurant

In a particularly memorable episode of Penn & Teller's Bulls__t, the guys set up a fake upscale restaurant, serve small, hyped dishes made of laughably low-cost ingredients (Salisbury steak, for example) to their posturing, opulent clientèle. They then film their victims as they ooh and ahh over the flim-flam dishes for which they're happily forking over a fortune. I'm not saying that The Union is that fraudulent. By no means. What I'm saying is that the distance between the hype and the reality coordinate with the highwayman prices to EVOKE that episode. As Erin F. indicates, the Union once served a taste menu. As of a couple months ago, that was no longer the case. What it serves now is snobbisme for the credulous, undersized dishes of uneven quality at a uniformly exorbitant price. I sat across from my girlfriend attempting to suppress a mischievous grin as I watched the feigned appreciation that spread over the faces of this cheaterie's bamboozled patrons. I felt like Mencken must have felt has he reported on the Scopes trial. To the specifics: I had the Beef Tartare. It was an acceptable dish. But the only thing that distinguished it from the beef Tartar I could have made myself was the use of a quail egg instead of a chicken egg. And at 13 dollars, I felt violated. Next came the Lumachine Pasta. Returning to my notes, I see: "To reverse engineer, use Hamburger Helper and pound or so of salt." It was simply awful. Finally, the entrée: Wagyu Sirloin Steak. In an exchange that I cannot remember with a straight face, I explained to the waitress that I had not received any implement with which I could cut the sirlion into eatable portions (I had not received a chainsaw). This was, she rejoined, "by design" -- that the sirloin was "marbled". Honestly, the Union is OK, and the wine list is good, but the fare justifies neither the ballyhoo nor the price. more

I agree with the other reviewer, Erin F. Union is a much under-reviewed gem in terms of consistently good gourmet cuisine in Seattle. I went for the first time a while back and was pleasantly surprised by the gracious and attentive wait staff and even the nice ambiance of the restaurant. The food was wonderful -- everything was plated simply and beautifully, and it was delicious from the first bite to the last. I especially enjoyed my Wagyu beef steak with potatoes and chard -- absolutely mouth watering. I've heard that the best deal at Union is to sit in the bar area and order from their smaller plates menu -- which I plan to try next. Even still, their regular menu is well-priced for the food they are serving. I hope they will find a large influx of new and old patrons once the construction settles down. more

Union restaurant deserves more credit than it's been getting lately. We discovered Union when we were living in temporary housing downtown and visited their bar frequently. They make great martini's and the bar is small and quaint. The restaurant we were a bit skeptical about but were pleasantly surprised by the food. They offer a pre-fixe menu for $50 plus another $30 if you want wine pairings. It's a great deal for the 7 courses you get. Their wine selection is top notch and the sommelier is very knowledgeable. For those of you with Herb Farm on your list, I'd pick Union first. It's significantly more economical and delivers even better fare. The sad part about this restaurant is that lately it's been nearly empty. Construction in and around 1st and Union isn't helping and each time we've been we feel like it could be our last visit. If you haven't been and are looking for a solid gourmet experience, check it out. As soon as the Seattle art Museum and Ritz (I think) are finished with construction, this will be a much better spot. I only hope they can pay the rent until then. more

When Union first opened, it participated in the 25 for $25 promo. That was a bargain beyond bargains that, unfortunately, likely won't occur again. Get the tasting menu--it's a foodie bargain $40 or $50 or whatever they're charging now. Relative to the average price of a sophisticated dinner in Seattle (e.g. Lark), it's a value. The menu is always changing, but what I do recall loving was the English pea soup. Young chef Ethan Stowell is an inventive guy. I loved a few of the dishes, and some were just decent, but nothing really turned me off. Seattle needs more such restaurants for true food lovers.

When some foodie friends of mine first took me, it was still somewhat unknown, which is probably why they participated in the 25 for $25. Well, the secret's out now as I saw it named in Esquire's 2004 list of top new restaurants in America. Good for a pre/post symphony meal. more