There is something of a phenomenon of epic hysteria that preceeds the restaurants of ""celebrity"" chefs, or as they were formerly known, simply, michelin rated culinarians. Alas, no less than thomas keller, arrives, with epic fanfare and hoopla to los angeles, indeed beverly hills.
What a beautiful room, and stunning bistro environment he has created amidst the age-old BH trattorias and steak spots. Hidden amidst the depths of Canon drive, this inviting and cozy marble encrusted and brass-laden dining room, sets the stage for eager gastronomes.
We are greated with a pleasant and keller-inspired napkin-menu. Well almost. Our napkins are draped in our laps, followed by the waiter unveiling this evening's menu, which doubled as the napkin ring.
We are presented with an other-worldly crusty baguette, which we tear apart and gobble. Sadly, we must track down a bus boy to detail its accompaniments- a white bean spread, accompanied with toast points, serving as a quasi amuse (?).
the house specialty cocktail menu was inspired, yet we were rushed to decision, after begging off twice.
We began with the cod ""fritters,"" myriad olives, and foie gras. This may well have been the stand-out course. The fritters paired nicely with the alsatian reisling and were crispy on the outside and stunningly dense and fresh with pureed cod on the inside. The foie gras was as good as it gets. Paired with fleur de sel and simple crisped baguette, and served in a mason jar, as would suit a provencal country table. We were less moved by the poor pairing of a less than succulent and sweet sauternes. This was really shocking. I've never had this let down.
The salads that half the table ordered were standard fare and adequite. Which begs the mention, why amidst this post 20th century phenonenon of menus filled with pounds of pork, served every which way, and standards as duck,veal,chicken, sea bass, beef and salmon, accompanied by the now standard array of ""steak house"" sides- mac and cheese, brussel sprouts, potatos, etc- do we have to be let down by one as grand as keller, himself? Granted this isn't french laundry or per se, and we must calibrate our expectations, and perhaps that is what is inherent in this culinary challenge facing the great ""top chefs"" of north american cuisine. We must remember that, indeed, Bouchon, is keller's high end bistro. Alas, it arrives in central beverly hills to fanfare unparalleled since batali joined the los angeles food scene several years ago at melrose and highland with his osteria mozza/pizzeria mozza franchise. This sets the stage implicitly for high fare. Bistro or not.
The moules frites main dish were served in a practical cauldron of broth and plump and plentiful. The accompanying pommes frites, which I had high expectations for, were thin and somewhat cold to the touch, and ultimately did not deliver. A big let down for a high-end dining room.
The sea bass served over a bed of vegetables was flavorful and cooked well. On the other hand, the veal chop, a special off the menu, was dry, under-seasoned and underwhelming. The accompanying sweetbreads wrapped in cabbage was a refreshing delight.
It is always appreciated in a fine dining establishment when the wait staff details what is on one's plate, upon its arrival. We had to ask, and were reminded what we had ordered, in detail.
Desserts were really a drag. Nothing exciting. Nothing interesting. And of the three I sampled, nothing great.
The profteroles were standard. The chocolate mini cakes, again, standard. The lemon tart tasted, off altogether. A dessert wine/ after dinner drink menu had to be requested. There was no mention of drinks on the dessert menu.
We expected very, very good food from a thomas keller restaurant. What we got was, average cuisine amidst a sea of great los angles restaurants, coupled with hollywood waiter service.
Pros: foie gras
Cons: service, middling cuisine
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