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Businiess name:
L'angolo Ristorante
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Review by:
citysearch c.
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Review content:
I have been going to L'Angolo off and on since it opened (I was a weekly regular for lunch, which, sadly, is no more). Over that time there have been a number of changes in the kitchen, and I think the current chef, a young and talented Gallipolian (Puglia) may just be the best. The trick with getting the most out of the L'Angolo experience is the same one I advise for all true Italian restaurants: look for the simplest dishes and you will find the best. The baked funghi infused with the rich flavors of olive oil and rosemary, the grilled calamari drizzled with olive oil and your own squirt of lemon, the insalate served with olive oil and salt - just as is in Italy - all simple, all exquisite. Likewise with the pasta, stay away from the over-sauced, the over-creamed, the over-piled with ubiquitous lump crab meat. Choose instead the simple papardelle with Ox tail braised until it falls apart, a real ""slow food"" celebration for the palate. Or the orrecchiette with shredded duck cooked simply in wine and herbs. Or, my favorite, still made but no longer listed on the menu, delicate and flavorful gnocchi in a 'molte semplice' olive oil and rosemary condiment. (to call it a sauce would be to mislead). But superb simple food is only part of the allure of L'Angolo. The energetic, eager, and uncannily anticipatory young wait staff perfectly compliment the food with their own balance of simple artistry. To the reviewers who fault this part of the L'Angolo experience, I say, eat at Babbo or Vetri if formal pampered service is your Idea of Italian dining. For me, the uniqueness of L'Angolo is inseparable from Nino's familiar but always professional doting, and especially his vicarious participation in the festive celebration of il cibo italiano.
Pros: Siimple but equisite Pugliese/Italian food; wait staff adds to enjoyment.
Cons: Some overambitious menu items sometimes miss the mark
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