Thor

The Scene
A mod igloo-like entrance leads into a den decked out in a dizzying lace design. Stretched along the walls and ceiling, the pattern is broken in the dining room by a glass atrium towering over a stylish, animated crowd mostly made up of Hotel Rivington guests from Europe and L.A..

The Food
The dozen ingredient-focused dishes are categorized into cold starters, warm starters, sides and hot entrees. Busyness works in a moussey red beet terrine, whose sweetness zings with horseradish then mellows with goat cheese, but not for the competing flavors of lobster with cherries, fava beans and bearnaise. Juicy, steamed duck rounds wrapped in cabbage is a refreshingly focused dish, while desserts such as dough-coated chocolate lollipops with malted milkshake command attention. The homemade Snickers bar, a sweet-salty blend of caramel, chocolate and peanuts, requires no extra concentration for enjoyment.