Long Island City, a growing mecca for ambitious chefs, now can boast about being home to what quite possibly is NYC's best showcase for the cuisine of Roma-Lazio. In a subtly decorated, softly lit room, a lovely bar, a wood fired oven and comfortable tables somehow make the most of the somewhat narrow expanse and set the stage for a great meal experience. Outstanding items were the young artichokes, the spinach flan, the oxtail terrine, all pastas and pizzas and (surprise!) a beautifully grilled steak served with caramelized onions and spuds. Well-mixed cocktails, a compact yet wide-ranging menu and an amiable staff combine to deliver a wonderful experience, albeit at quasi-Manhattan price$. The wine list struck us as pricey but that's a nit-pick. Testaccio is worth enjoying.
Pros: Food, service, decor
Cons: Zip
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