IN my travels for business and pleasure I have dined at Nobu/NY, Matsuhisu/LA and Morimoto (original Iron Chef)/Philly and Fujita/Tokai City, Japan. Tim at Sakura Restaurant in Marietta is creating dishes in a class with the above chefs. In fact, I found his nigiri to be superior to that at Morimoto. Tim has worked hard to find suppliers who can get the freshest salmon from Scotland, octopus from Africa, Golden-eye snapper and escolar from the Gulf of Mexico and hard-to-find fish such as kanpachi, madai, genuine blue-label uni, bluefin o-toro and chu toro (don't believe the "toro" you are being served in most "Japanese" restaurants in Atlanta is the real thing) flown in from Japan. Sometimes items such as aji (aka Spanish mackerel), halibut fin, flounder fin, hamachi toro and much more are available for regulars in the know. Sakura's beautiful rolls and appetizers are unbeatable for flavor combinations and presentation. Toro tartare and marinated black cod appetizers compare favorably in quality with Nobu! Tim pays tribute to his Indonesian heritage with a variety of fusion appetizers, including a baked lobster appetizer that is off the charts in creamy richness. His attention to sauces, all of which are made fresh on the premises, is worthy of a French chef. Though on the pricey side at dinner, Sakura's lunch specials (11:30-2:30, TF) are the neighborhood's best-kept secret. A sampler of the best six pieces of fish of the day (sashimi or nigiri), plus a roll, salad and soft drink, can be had for about $10. Cooked chicken, beef and fish lunch combinations are also available. You will see the same folks lunching there several times a week--it's THAT good, and THAT cheap. Don't be put off by the strip-center location (in the parking lot at Kroger Parkaire, corner of Johnson Ferry and Lower Roswell Roads). The nighttime ambiance is dark and romantic and service is excellent, though it can be slow on Friday and Saturday nights between 7 and 9, when the place is invariably packed.
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