The Modern is quickly becoming a staple of the near Nordeast-side just a few blocks from the bottle houses and the former Grain Belt Brewery. Even if I can recall the days when the Modern lived in the 20s along Chicago Ave south it seems to have fully rooted just off University Ave and 12th St. NE.
This section of Minneapolis has the feel of Williamsburg, Brooklyn as a secondary migration out of the warehouse district into far-flung digs (not too far-flung) making for a mixture of the newly arrived artists and the coquettish soubrette who refuse to yield ground in this solidly middle class ethnic neighborhood.
As first blush, it might feel like you walked into a combination greasy diner and Edward Hopper painting but you'll find the food here to be more sophisticated than the home cooking that simply sticks to your ribs and makes you feel queazy for the rest of the evening. The Modern's food is prepared expertly by chef Phillip Becht, full of lush ingredients like mushrooms and truffles, well-made sausage, flageolet beans and duck confit.
The prices at the Modern will test the cash strapped pockets of the neighborhood regular or artist starving in the garret, in other words, those who live in the hood but the food is a real treat and well worth a visit.
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