Bar Review Martin's, One for the Ages By Fritz Hahn Washington Post Weekend Section Friday, June 11, 2004 Every president from Harry S. Truman to George W. Bush has stopped into Martin's Tavern, a Georgetown watering hole that opened just as Prohibition ended. John F. Kennedy was a regular when, as a senator from Massachusetts, he lived two blocks down N Street. Madeleine Albright was a neighbor and still comes in for the restaurant's filling "comfort food." Mickey Mantle and Mel Torme were frequent guests when they were in town. Chris Matthews and Brit Hume still are. But despite all this history, Martin's is not an expense-account restaurant, nor one that requires reservations well in advance. Stop in some night and see for yourself; through August, Martin's is running a number of specials in honor of its 70th anniversary. Four generations of William Martins have owned this humble, single-story tavern, with its odd columns, cramped seats around the ends of the bar, and rear "Dugout" room -- a semi-private space reminiscent of a speak-easy. Fox-hunting prints and black-and-white baseball photos hang on walls colored by dark wood stain and decades of cigarette smoke. Tiffany-style lamps dangle overhead. The high-backed hardwood booths creak and groan when you shift. "The tavern's been here 70 years, and we haven't changed much," owner William A. "Billy" Martin Jr. says proudly. "The paneling in here is all the same, the bar top's the same, the configuration's the same. I remember the light fixtures with etched glass from when I was a boy." He's fond of a trio of prints that belonged to the estate of President James Monroe; the family purchased them at auction decades ago. Many area bars seek to emulate this homey, traditional atmosphere. But while other establishments seem to think character comes from some tavern decorator's supply store, Martin's gained it through decades of experience as Georgetown's well-worn and much-loved corner pub, serving mugs of beer and warming dishes of pot roast, crab cakes or steak with heaps of mashed potatoes and green beans. Here's a quick family history: William G. Martin, a baseball star for Georgetown Prep and Georgetown University, opened the tavern with his father, William S. Martin, in 1933. The younger Martin had retired from professional baseball after a career that included stints on Boston's "Miracle Braves" of 1914 and playing alongside the legendary Olympian Jim Thorpe as a member of the New York Giants. William G.'s son, William A. -- known as Billy -- was also a star athlete at Georgetown and started working at the tavern after serving in the Navy during World War II. In 1982, Billy's son -- William A. Martin Jr. -- began bartending at the tavern and took over when his father retired to Florida. Now, he's the face of the house, full of stories passed down from his father and grandfather. There's just one small problem. "For all practical purposes, last year was supposed to be our 70th anniversary," William A. Martin Jr. explains. "Do the numbers: [The tavern] opened in '33 and this is '04, which makes it 71 [years in business], but [in 2003,] we had a lot of unseen repairs, stuff breaking down. This has been a good year, and we decided to have a party for our 70th anniversary." In addition to an invite-only party for regulars, Martin decided on a set of summer-long specials that pay tribute to the celebrities -- famous and infamous -- who've added to the tavern's lore. The theme is "Drinks by the Decade." "I talked to my dad and said, 'Who was drinking what when?' He pretty much gave me the whole list," Martin says. "It's not really that exciting. Years ago, it wasn't the Cosmopolitans and Sex on the Beaches and all that sort of thing. People were drinking martinis and Manhattans and Scotches on the rocks." Even without bartending pyrotechnics, the list is a fascinating glimpse into Georgetown's past. The '30s are represented by an austere martini, dubbed the Spytini because "[convicted Soviet spy] Elizabeth Bentley used to drink martinis when she was here" meeting her contacts, Martin explains. His father, who ran the tavern for more than 40 years, has told him how Lyndon B. Johnson and House Speaker Sam Rayburn "would sit in the back booths fashioning plans for the government" in the '40s and '50s. The elder Martin says they used to drink bourbon Old Fashioneds (bourbon with a few dashes of bitters, a sugar cube and water), so that made the list, as did Scotch on the rocks, a favorite with the 1940s crowd like Air Force Gen. Carl A. "Tooey" Spaatz. Wine is featured for the later decades -- chardonnay for Sen. Paul Simon, cabernet sauvignon in honor of the cartoonist Herblock, who used to convene with fellow artist Pat Oliphant in a front booth. All drinks cost $7.95. Also on the menu: "Delmonico steak, because that's one thing we were known for when [the tavern] opened: top-quality steak. LBJ used to eat it here, four-star generals -- even during the Depression, [the dining room] was so full that people were tipping milk crates up on their sides to sit on." Outside of weekends, Martin's usually draws an older crowd -- one that frequently knows the bartenders and servers by name. The music is odd, too, a mix of '80s and mid-'90s "oldies." But the happy hour is a great deal: $2 draft beers and a menu that includes large, rib-sticking Angus burgers with toppings for $3.95, as well as ho-hum bar food like potato skins. Arrive early to get a seat with elbow room. Martin is proud of his family's legacy. Almost nothing on the block is the same as it was 15 or 20 years ago, let alone 70. It's a unique reminder of how Georgetown used to be, almost a museum. But unlike some restaurants, you won't find a single signed photo of Martin posing with Albright, Bush or John Kerry, let alone Kennedy or Rayburn. "We don't decorate the walls with pictures of these people [who have been into Martin's]," Martin explains. "We just have pictures of my family." The future seems to be in safe hands. Martin's enjoying life as a restaurateur, and he's planning for the future. Maybe one day the tavern will pass to his son -- also named Billy Martin.
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