Visible from Route 50 just south of Lake Tahoe, Lover's Leap is an impressive and unique chunk of granite. The rock is characterized by hundreds of dikes (thin, nearly horizontal ridges) running across the face. It's an ideal area for climbers--there's a good variety of climbs; it's a short hike to the face, and free camping is available.
Lover's Leap offers a large number of climbs in the moderate (5.6 - 5.9) range. Most of the wall is fairly vertical, but the dikes form ledges, footholds and handholds that make even steep sections easy to climb. It makes for some exciting and exposed leading, even at lower grades. Because the rock is solid, and most of the climbs follow crack lines or other features that simplify route-finding and pro-placing, it's a good area for beginning lead climbers (though at most belays you'll need to construct your own anchor rather than clip into a fixed one).
The area comprises two sections: the East Face and the Main Wall. Most routes on both sections are three pitches to the top, with some longer routes interspersed. Generally, the East Face is more crowded than the Main Wall; it has a higher concentration of 5.6 - 5.8 climbs.
A hiking trail descends the east end of the ridge, providing an easy walk down and allowing your non-climbing friends to meet you at the top for lunch.
Ample hiking and mountain biking trails in the area make this an ideal summer destination. Because of the 7000' altitude, however, climbing season usually ends with the first major snowfall and doesn't resume until spring.--Tad Borek
Directions:
Take the Bay Bridge to Interstate 80. In Sacramento exit onto Route 50. Follow Route 50 to the town of Strawberry. Turn into the parking lot for Strawberry Lodge, and follow the road leading out of the east end of the lot through houses to a small parking lot and camping area.
Guidebook: Climber's Guide To Tahoe Rock, Mike Carville, 1991 (new edition du