The Scene
It's like the plot of a Meg Ryan movie: Kim Hoffer wandered into a whirlwind romance with chef Eric Masson in Paris, where he was running a restaurant. They fell in love, he followed his heart and came to her hometown of Amsterdam, NY, where he opened a new restaurant in her native city. This dying mill town resists fine dining but Masson is winning converts, especially among travelers from Albany, who find excellent food here at bargain prices.
The Food
How refreshing to find a menu that's so French! The veal Marengo, made with eggplant, carrots, tomatoes and olives, was Napoleon's favorite dish. The duck meat in the outstanding confit de canard is cured overnight and then broiled until crispy. Bouillabaisse is offered frequently, and there's delicious steak au poivre with a rich white wine and cream sauce flavored with brandy. Look for wine tasting dinners and other special-occasion celebrations at good prices.