The Scene
The buzzing loft-like space is sleek and casual, with swooping light fixtures, deep-red walls and simple wooden tables. An open kitchen provides a view of the roaring wood-fired pizza oven; there are a number of tables scattered around but the room doesn't seem crowded. Order at the counter during lunch; table service at dinner is unceremonious, yet polite.
The Food
The pizza here is about as far from mass-market, mound-o'-mozzarella pie as it can get--it's authenticated by the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana. The stellar thin crust is firm yet elastic, with bubbles that are charred just right; toppings are done with restraint and simplicity, like super-thin Parma prosciutto or a pretty pile of spicy arugula. It's all priced right, including enormous salads that are plenty for three and a tiramisu for two that's boozy-tasting and right-on.