BANDERA

The Scene
A well-dressed after-work crowd packs the noisy and festive bar area, while lively music plays over the happy din. Families and groups fill the banquettes around the large room, while the belly-baring youth sip cocktails and parade around the bar.

The Food
This chain, a spin-off of Houston's, specializes in hearty American cuisine. The menu may be corporate, but the kitchen consistently turns out decent dishes that are delivered quickly by accommodating servers. Regular diners go gaga over the skillet cornbread, a moist concoction of sweet and creamy corn cut with the sharp bite of green-chili peppers. Tender wood-roasted chicken and slow-roasted lamb turn on rotisseries in full view of diners, but opt for the delicious and huge chicken enchilada platter, topped with a fried egg. Big eaters should save room for the banana-cream pie, laden with homemade caramel and rich crushed chocolate.